thompsondockside.com

16 years ago I bought my derelict 1957 Sea Lancer and got active on this forum for a while. Well, long story short, I finally plan to launch her early this summer. Anybody still hanging out here?

Hey - I just drove through that area on the way up to Winston-Salem last weekend for a graduation ceremony. We'll also be up at Hartwell for a party end of June. Maybe I could break away for a visit, or you could swing by on the lake?!? PM or email (or text...) me your address up there, so I'll know...

If you use a fine tooth blade to rip the ribs you will have little to no blade marks then just go over them with some 80 grit sandpaper. Karl. Here's another tip along those lines: Put a 7-1/4" circular saw blade in your tablesaw. The arbor hole should be the same 5/8"; you just get less ...

I might be late to the dance on this topic, but I thought I'd add my $0.02. When I remade my keelson, I had the same internal debate, especially since my boat had lost all of its original shape. I decided that what you've come up with had to have been the original design. You want the rear 1/3 or so...

Hey, it happens. No worries!

I've been away from the forum for a while (and sort of shelved the boat project for the past year). Finally digging back into it.

Anyway, isn't that backwards... the KEELSON is on the inside (on top) and the KEEL is outside, below, in the water?

You know, I've been considering that. There's really no rust or corrosion on them. The bolts would be replaced if I did that; had to hit the heads of a couple with an angle grinder to get them out b/c the squares under the carriage bolt heads wouldn't bite into the wood enough to get the nuts unscre...

I'm at the point of rebuilding my floor framing (sister keelsons and the lateral pieces that cross over and join to the keelson). I had thought that the sisters and the laterals were joined together with bronze angle "iron", but taking them apart, I found that the angles look like galvaniz...

...I am sure that when they were built no one was thinking about 50 years later when some poor fool in a garage in Northen Michigan (or Minnesota) would be trying to restore one. :) Karl. ... or North Georgia, for that matter! As an engineer and now home builder/remodeler, I will say that the lamin...

My '57 Sea Lancer did not have the seal under the windshield, and looks like it never did. It did have a nice (?) built-up cove of varnish that had to be broken to get the frame off!

BTW, the glass was held in with 1/4" square solid aluminum stock, I believe, not tubing.

Ken, If you haven't found your oak yet, here's a tip. Find a local cabinetry shop and find out where they get their material. The building-supply lumber yards probably won't have white oak, but the lumber yards that supply cabinet makers and furniture makers will. In the Atlanta area, there are many...

You mean you stuck the pointy end of the screws into a 4mm socket and bent it so the point broke off? I'm thinking if I'm just worried about an extra 1/8", I'll use my linesman pliers and snip 1/8" or so off the point.

But hey... whatever works!

The aluminum strips that retain the glass on my '57 Sea Lancer are 1/4" square aluminum stock. For yours, don't forget that you can machine aluminum with woodworking tools, especially carbide-tipped cutters. You could take 1/4" square stock and round it over on a router table using feather...

Thanks, Phill. Yep, Silicon Bronze is all I'm shopping for, and in the cut threads as well. Haven't checked Fastenal, but I've heard of them. Will do. Jamestown is okay on prices, but not as good as Top Notch in most/all cases. FYI -- A quick check at Fastenal puts them near the highest on pricing f...

I'm at the point of putting together orders for my new fasteners. I've read warnings not to reuse old screws that may look fine but may be hiding corrosion and metal fatigue. My questions: Has anyone found #6 x 1-1/8 bronze wood screws? The ones I took out that attach the hull to the frames appear t...