thompsondockside.com

Thanks,

That info jives well with how she performed. I'm pretty content with the current top speed given the size of most of the lake I'll be visiting. I'll probably keep my eyes out for a larger outboard from the mid 1960's just to have some options.

It's a 1962. I measured it awhile back when I started the renovation work to make sure I could fit it comfortably in my garage and I think it was in the mid 17' range loa. I wouldn't say that the 40 was "wimpy" but I'm new to power boating from sail boats so I don't really know what to exp...

I've finally got my 40hp '62 Johnson up and running and took my Sealancer on its shakedown cruise. The boat handled great and overall I was very pleased. The boat did not quite plane but was very close. I'm wondering if the throttle possible wasn't all the way open and I just need to adjust the link...

Capt. Dan- You pretty much need to adapt a schrader type valve stem to fit one of the gearcase plug holes. When attached you can use a bicycle pump with a good gauge to get 5 psi in the gearcase. Then you can submerge it and check for leaks. OR you can take the gearcase and drive shaft to your local...

Capt. Dan-

I'm with John, definitely pressure test the gearcase and submerge it. Then you can follow the bubbles...

Capt. Dan, My driveshaft was grooved at the place where the lip seal under the water pump rides and also where the upper impeller housing seal sits. Strangely enough, I did not find tons of oily gunk in the water pump so I'm not yet clear on the route the oil took to get to the exhaust. I did have s...

John,

Thanks for the advice. I wish it was that simple but the oil in the exhaust was definitely gear lube. The drive shaft is deeply grooved where the gear case lip seal rides and is currently at the machine shop.

Thanks for the kind words, John. I was a little hesitant to post the pics because I opted not to do a true restoration to original. Now all I have to do is get the outboard to quit leaking gearcase lube out the exhaust! On my way to work this morning I spied a TomBoy up for sale. The wife is going t...

Some pics of my recently completed refurb of a '62 Sealancer formerly bound for the burn pile. I picked up the boat for free last October. http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i278/mengelmar/boatside.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i278/mengelmar/boatside2.jpg http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i2...

I make my own penetrating epoxy using regular West Systems resin and than thinning with xylene as much as 50%. I've had good success using this technique in stabilizing non-structural rot and as a clear sealer under paint or varnish. Give it a try but be aware that there is no complete substitute fo...

How about some anti-bond http://www.boatersworld.com/product/376970950msk.htm

Has anybody tried it? There's one that supposedly works great for 5200 but I don't remember the name right now.

TreelineIII wrote:I wish a few of you were in town, are you?

Could be? I'm in Maine

I recently rolled my own restoration project (a '62 Sea Lancer) using nothing more than four friends, a couple of tires, and some wood blocking. We just slid her off the trailer and set the stern on two tires, you can also tie the boat in place while pulling the trailer ahead very slowly and careful...

I echo Txcaptdan's experiences with thinned epoxy. I bought one kit of CPES before finding the epoxyproducts.com page. Now I thin epoxy to varying degrees to custom fit the immediate purpose (ie. stabilization of minor rot, sealing of new wood, primer for paint or varnish)