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Pretty certain my '62 is stock spray rails, painted white oak. I just like the look of the mahogany as a trim piece. Interesting to see the catalogue of the 1964 showing mahogany spray rails on the I/O. 1964 was the last year, right? Anyway, thank you Andreas and Phill for the input. Will checkout t...

Great photos of the T&T's...wow! Love my T&T boat and seems well built. I have made some changes from the original... most notably the floor and seats. Compared to the keelson structure of the Seacoaster I saw, the T&T seems far superior. I really like your mahogany spray rail. Is that o...

My 1962 T&T Breakers purchased two years ago. Last years photos and still working on her. (My wife asks; "Do you ever finish working on these boats?") Will bring her (both of them) to the rally this June. http://imageshack.us/a/img843/2333/pa050042.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img835/193...

On my 62 T&T I tightened all nuts after I CPESed the bilge and before I CPESed the exterior hull. Then new epoxy putty, epoxy primer, Kirby Hull and Deck semi gloss white. Boat Life caulk on strake seams. Bilge is Interlux Bilgekote. Two years and zero leaks. Looks great.

I have been advised to consider using a wedge shaped transom plate to create under kick to the engine. Apparently, with engine in this position (up-thrust) the boat will plane much faster. This can only be done with a trim control engine, of course. I can see where this could be advantageous with a ...

Have you ever used toilet bowl wax as a bedding compound? Reportedly it's cheap easy-to-find, prevents water penetration and cleans-up well.

Any concerns about water in between the metal and the wood?
Could a sealant be put between the two materials to keep water out?
Thanks guys

Further information on this earlier post. Some guys question the use of rubber due to torquing of motor mount bolts. The soft "squish" could lead to transom damage over time. Some think the best solution would be a metal plate or nothing at the transom. What are you guys using? Metal, rubb...

After removing the old, disintegrating 1/4" plywood nailed on as a transom pad and refinishing the transom; what do you use for a transom pad?
I am mounting an e-tec 90HP. Is rubber the answer?

Thank you, Andreas. I am thinking of using a chrome plated metal on the spray rails and transom corners even though I know it's not original. I've seen it done and it sure looks nice. Any sources there ?

I am trying to replace the aluminum bang strips in the stem, spray rails and transom corners. Anyone have a go-to site? I was told Lyman was a good search but nothing jumps right out. Thanks

Like you and the Sea Lancer, I bought a '62 T&T in excellent original condition but needs lots work to make up for lack of routine upgrades in maintenance, leaking being a prime concern. I have not read on earlier posts reference to the excellent article written on the subject from AJR, "Le...

Torchie,

You experience is impressive and therefore I will look for the spool type in replacing the existing black rubber. I have heard the yellow polyurethane spools are the best. Non marking.

Are we all thinking of the keel "V" roller as opposed to the bow "V"? I can not see where the keel "V" would be deep enough to ever touch the garboards along the outer keel. I can see where a "bow V" could be an issue. I am trying to stay away from side-guides...

Replacing the rubber rollers on the trailer. These 4 keel rollers pick-up the load starting at mid-ship forward on my '62 T&T. Flat bunks are from transom to mid-ship. The old rollers are spool and do OK. However, getting the boat up on the trailer dead-center it seems that these spool rollers &...