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I'm guessing that you are seeing the effect of a torque reaction from the prop. Looking from the rear,your prop is turning clockwise the reaction on the hull will be counterclockwise, hense the roll to the left (port side).
That 75 hp is a pretty big motor for a relatively light 16 ft boat.
Joe B

Thanks for the correction Andreas, I had labled the pix in my file "R Thompson" R - Robert !!
Joe B

Sorry to hear about the passing of Mr. Thompson.. another bit of our history lost. I met Roy and several members of the Thompson family at na ACBS boat show in Penn Yan, NY back 5 or 6 years ago. The local show was featuring Thompsons. I trailered my Sea Lancer from MI. Most of the other Thompsons t...

The ribs on my Sea Lancer are thicker than 1/2" , I'm thinking more like a fat 5/8. Your theory of the coaster not needing limber holes may be correct unfortunatly
Joe B

If you are still looking for confirmation on the original colors, I suggest that you post a question at aomci.org. The guys at that site have lots of knowledge in the area of classic boats . trailers etc. I have seen several well restored classic trailers at the antique outboard club meets.
Joe B

yes, what Karl said ! If your boat is on a trailer with a wide stance frame you may be able to support the hull with a couple of long 4X4 's along the length, one each side of the keel placed under the stringers (sister keelsons)

for sawing screws a fine hacksaw blade ( 32 tpi) works good.

Joe B

Karl, very well done, this will be a great help to many folks confronted with this type of project.
Really neat GMC you got there... what about a 1953 or so ?

Thanks

Joe B

the V4SL- 12 is a Johnson 1960 75 hp , Magneto ignition , long shaft motor. Too bad it's missing the electrical wiring harness which would include the junction box and voltage regulator

Joe B

The assembly/disassembly sequence as Andreas stated is correct, requiring the removal of the garboard and other planks to access fasteners. However If you don't need or intend to remove the planks you can still complete the rib and keelson repairs. Screws into the keelson sisters will come out with ...

like they say ...if it aint broke, don't fix it.
If you see some crumblinging insulation, I wouldn't be adverse to applying a bit of good electrical tape, like 3M Super 33+... good stuff!

Joe B

I'll take a shot at a couple of replies... The 60's vintage OMC electric shift lower units are apparently good reliable units if the gear cases had been properly maintained. These units did not like water mixed with the oil. John, as for replacement of the engine wiring harness. I think that you wou...

Brad, with conventional tools I see two possibilities, 1. use a 45 degree, pointed end router bit, with a guide tube on the router base - run it around a circular holed template. 2. If you got creative with a fly cutter type whole cutter, one might be able to make a custom bit that would cut the tap...

Gee guys, normally you are all pretty talkitive... but 122 views and only one response to Bill's inquiry. Well, what do ya' think ?
Joe B

Brad I like your idea of the tapered cedar plugs. As for the taper, consider a really wide taper... maybe something like a 90 degree countersink to bore the hole. This would give you a nice wide surface for adheasive and the plug would be less likley to pull thru the soft cedar.
Joe B

OK Tom let me take a shot at this... Based on my knowledge of these motors ( I have a 1961 75 HP ) I believe that both Evinrude and Johnson offered V-4 75's from 1960 thru the late 60's. The top of the line models had alternator charging systems (good) the others a generator. About 1962 the top of t...