Replacing ribs

Questions/concerns/issues. How did the other guy do it? Find out here.

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Jerry E
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 2:05 pm

Replacing ribs

Post by Jerry E »

Now that the new transom is in, I am ready to put in new ribs using the hull as the form.

I would like to do this in two steps. 1) Remove every other rib and replacing those and then 2) remove the remaing ribs and then replace those.

Here is my question: Can I remove every other rib without distorting the shape of the hull? This method could save some time.
Jerry E
The Cabinet Guy
a j r
Posts: 661
Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 3:09 pm

Post by a j r »

I see this as a very acceptable method.

Andreas
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thegammas
Posts: 566
Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 2:10 pm
Location: Wilmington, Delaware. peterstransky@verizon.net - put wooden boat in the subject

Post by thegammas »

Jerry -

I am interested in in doing the same, replacing some questionable ribs. How are you planning to use the hull as a form? Will you be steaming bending solid stock or building up laminated ribs with thin pieces and epoxy?

If steaming you'll have just a few minutes (or so I have read) to set the steamed rib in place before and secure it before it cools and becomes inflexible again. How will you hold it in place till it cools and takes shape? I ask cause I haven't come up with an approach other than removing a few strategic planks to provide a place to clamp the rib, and I am not really up for that level of dis-assembly
Peter Stransky
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
Jerry E
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 2:05 pm

Post by Jerry E »

I watched a couple of retired guys put ribs in a boat last week and I plan to copy what they did.

They used a propane tank (the size for gas grills) and the burner from a turkey deep fryer. The whole thing costs $39 at Menards.

They had a steel exhaust pipe welded on one end (so it holds water) about 5 feet long. I will have a pipe long enough for the longest rib. The pipe was fixed at a 45 degree angle full of water with the welded end over the burner.

They boiled (steamed) the rib for about 30 minutes and kept adding water as it was steamed off. After about 30 minutes, one guy grabbed the piece out of the pipe and placed it against a stop (inner keel). The other guy used a stick to jam it against the hull to form the shape while the other guy shoved it down from the top end. Once it met the shape of the hull, they clamped it into place and attached with the fastners. The bending time was about 5 - 10 seconds. Not long.

This is what they did and it woked well. I will give it a try. If someone has had luck another way I would like to hear about their process.
Jerry E
The Cabinet Guy
thegammas
Posts: 566
Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 2:10 pm
Location: Wilmington, Delaware. peterstransky@verizon.net - put wooden boat in the subject

Post by thegammas »

So my question is, how were the clamping it in place? What were they clamping the rib too? Was the bottom out? Planks out? I dont get it (sorry)
Peter Stransky
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
Jerry E
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 2:05 pm

Post by Jerry E »

The planks are in, the whole hull is as normal. Expose all ribs without the stringers, floor support rail, etc.

One end of the rib is first placed against a stop at the inner keel. The steamed, pliable rib is then hand formed to the hull with downward pressure applied from the other end with assistance of a stick to work the rib against the hull. Once the rib takes the hull shape, clamp the top end to the top plank. The pressure against the stop (at inner keel end) along with the top end clamped to the top planking, will hold it in place while it dries and is attached with screws. There is no need for any intermediate clamps.

Hope this helps, if not let me know and I will try to send pictures if I get it to work properly.
Jerry E
The Cabinet Guy
JoeCB
Posts: 241
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 5:17 pm
Location: Farmington Hills , MI

Post by JoeCB »

My $0.02 worth... the "old guy" method sounds like it would work great. (I keep telling my sons that old guys can be pretty smart too !). As for intermediate clamps, they may not be necessary but if I were doing this I would have a few clamp bars ready in case I needed to apply a little pressure at some point along the rib. Suggestion ... make up a bar with a hook at each end and a jack screw in the middle. The hooks would slip under the two adjacent ribs and the jack screw clamped down on the new rib being formed. The bar could be all metal (about 3/16 X 1 inch stock) or even wood with metal "U" hooks on each end.

Joe B
Jerry E
Posts: 22
Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 2:05 pm

Post by Jerry E »

The clamp that attaches to the two ribs on either side may be a good idea especially when approaching the transom. Those bends are tight.
Thanks.
Jerry E
The Cabinet Guy
thegammas
Posts: 566
Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 2:10 pm
Location: Wilmington, Delaware. peterstransky@verizon.net - put wooden boat in the subject

Post by thegammas »

The challenge I will have is that the ribs on my sea lancer run from sheer, under the first sister, between two inner keels, and under the second sister where they terminate. Might be a little more challening to slide the new rib in place.

Havent decided if I am going to replace the garboards. They are delaminated at the bow and along the keel. If I do, then I could replace the ribs when the bottom is off, alowing for easy clamping - have to ponder if the is a risk of losing the bottom shape though.

Who knows what I'll do - these are the things I fall asleep at nighjt thinking about.

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Peter Stransky
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
a j r
Posts: 661
Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 3:09 pm

Post by a j r »

Just so everyone is understanding, the two photos from Peter are of a "Thompson Boat Company of New York, Inc." boat made at Cortland, NY. This was AFTER the split from Peshtigo in 1959. Cortland made their hull framing differently than Peshtigo.

Andreas
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