Thanks Andreas, I'll give that a shot. I plan on using zspar 1095. I've read on this forum that 333 is used to thin it out. Let me know if I'm on track since I'm a newbie at this.
I crawled around the boat last night with a flashlight looking for the mfg plate but couldn't find it. I looked inside the starboard stern side. I'll continue my search today in the daylight.
Here's a link that your don't have to cut and paste to see the windshield:
http://www.tomforero.com/camping2002/100-0012_img.htm
This link is my favorite photo of my Thompson:
http://www.tomforero.com/camping2003/100-0031_img.htm
Thanks and regards, Tom
stain need clarificaction from all you experts
Moderators: a j r, TDockside, Miles, Moderators
varnish
Ok GUYS its me again I know I asked this question about this earlier (varnishing) (months ago). Has anyone ever used a product called Bristol Finish (urethane) or any other (urethane). Again I want to remind all that IM a green horn at this and doing this job (varnishing) has me in a tizzy I have never varnished anything in my life. Even reading danenbergs two books gets confuesing to say the least. But guys Im getting closer to needing to do this. Urethane sounds easy to do after reading up on it but I would like to know the thoughts of you fellows on the use of it both the golden hue and the clear or would I be wasting my time and MONEY boy is it costly 180 for gal 60 for qt. 6coats could get very expensive. Anyway guys thanks in advance for your thoughts and remember to keep it above water. Jim Hays
My recommondation is to stick with marine spar varnish. I have no clue what urethane will do and how it holds up the the movement of a boat, and if it has UV inhibitors...
There are umteen types of spar varnish that are readily available: Interlux Schooner 96, Pettit, Epiphanes, etc... I just happen to use Interlux Schooner 96.
Here's what I do to new wood or wood that has been completely stripped: seal with CPES; stain; seal with Old Salem sealer; first coat varnish is thinned 25% varnish and 75% mineral spirits; second coat 50% varnish/mineral spirits; third coat 75% varnish and 25% mineral spirits, then 100% varnish. Do not sand bewteen coats until you get to 100% varnish coats. Also wait after sealing and staining several days before you proceed to the next coatings. I wait at least 24 hours between varnish coats. Also depends on temperature and humidity.
Andreas
There are umteen types of spar varnish that are readily available: Interlux Schooner 96, Pettit, Epiphanes, etc... I just happen to use Interlux Schooner 96.
Here's what I do to new wood or wood that has been completely stripped: seal with CPES; stain; seal with Old Salem sealer; first coat varnish is thinned 25% varnish and 75% mineral spirits; second coat 50% varnish/mineral spirits; third coat 75% varnish and 25% mineral spirits, then 100% varnish. Do not sand bewteen coats until you get to 100% varnish coats. Also wait after sealing and staining several days before you proceed to the next coatings. I wait at least 24 hours between varnish coats. Also depends on temperature and humidity.
Andreas
Thanks Andreas; Guys I forgot to mention that I saw this in a ad in a copy of my wooden boat mag and was wondering if this would be a way to go, useing urethane. Will add a copy of this posting to my file, one of the problems here is you cant trust the weather when it comes to worring about humidity and temp it can change in the middle of what your doing especially when your not working in a climate controlled shop or paint booth. anyway again thanks all Jim Hays.
Jim... don't worry about being new to varnishing... you will get the hang of it.... I also used Schnooner 96 varnish and really liked it.. I liked the smell, the way it flowed, and the way it got more rich and golden with each coat. I think I used about $300-350 on my 16' Seacoaster.
As you varnish, you will notice the surface getting smoother and smoother... Probably the main thing to keep in mind is restricting dust and disruption when you apply the varnish...
Let me know if you want to discuss this more, but I would suggest that you:
1) Buy a box of 25 sheets of 150, 220 sandpaper
2) Buy several 3M Scotch Pads.... like the maroon and white
3) Buy three or four packages of the 3M Sandblaster sandpaper that will clog less and last longer .. like 240 and 320 grit
4) 10 or so Jen Mfg poly brushes (I bought an expensive badger hair brush and never used it) 2", 3 and maybe 4"
5) 10 or so paint strainers
6) 10+ tack cloths
7) You may want to try throwaway natural bristle brushes.. China seems better than Indonesia
Get a package of styrafoam bowls, plastic spoons and plastic straws
The first coats, you can probably put down without sanding in between... I sanded, but I think you can use the scotch brites to haze it up before you apply finish..
When you use a tack cloth, open it up all the way, and then bunch it loosely... then don't press hard on the surface, or you might leave the sticky stuff on the surface. rebunch every couple swipes to get a new collection surface. I tried using mineral spirits on a tee shirt rag, but found that clean tack cloths were the best.
You can wet down your floor, shut all windows, wear clean clothes, don't move much, and keep everyone out of the area for a few hours or so after you apply..
After maybe four coats and a sanding, you will see a white surface, with dark shiny lines and pits... These will become fewer and smaller the more the varnish builds up, and that makes this rewarding and fun. (in a sick sort of way.......)
I would usually open a can of varnish and use a clean spoon or straw to pull out the amout of varnish that I thought I needed into a new bowl... After the varnish in the can started getting a skin on it, I would usually run each draw through a paint strainer and into the bowl.. Putting a sheet of plastic Saran type wrap right on the surface before you close the can, greatly reduces the skinning..
I would barely dip the brush into the bowl and gently stroke it onto the surface of the deck or seat, just enough to wet it and see it turn dark. You can experiment, but if you put too much on a non horizontal surface, it will run easily... even when you think it is perfect, you will come back in a half hour and it will have runned.... this will sand off, or I have even scrapped and then sanded some big runs.... A transom is tougher than a front deck.
Sorry for the long post... you probably got a lot more advice than you needed.
John Hart
As you varnish, you will notice the surface getting smoother and smoother... Probably the main thing to keep in mind is restricting dust and disruption when you apply the varnish...
Let me know if you want to discuss this more, but I would suggest that you:
1) Buy a box of 25 sheets of 150, 220 sandpaper
2) Buy several 3M Scotch Pads.... like the maroon and white
3) Buy three or four packages of the 3M Sandblaster sandpaper that will clog less and last longer .. like 240 and 320 grit
4) 10 or so Jen Mfg poly brushes (I bought an expensive badger hair brush and never used it) 2", 3 and maybe 4"
5) 10 or so paint strainers
6) 10+ tack cloths
7) You may want to try throwaway natural bristle brushes.. China seems better than Indonesia
Get a package of styrafoam bowls, plastic spoons and plastic strawsThe first coats, you can probably put down without sanding in between... I sanded, but I think you can use the scotch brites to haze it up before you apply finish..
When you use a tack cloth, open it up all the way, and then bunch it loosely... then don't press hard on the surface, or you might leave the sticky stuff on the surface. rebunch every couple swipes to get a new collection surface. I tried using mineral spirits on a tee shirt rag, but found that clean tack cloths were the best.
You can wet down your floor, shut all windows, wear clean clothes, don't move much, and keep everyone out of the area for a few hours or so after you apply..
After maybe four coats and a sanding, you will see a white surface, with dark shiny lines and pits... These will become fewer and smaller the more the varnish builds up, and that makes this rewarding and fun. (in a sick sort of way.......)
I would usually open a can of varnish and use a clean spoon or straw to pull out the amout of varnish that I thought I needed into a new bowl... After the varnish in the can started getting a skin on it, I would usually run each draw through a paint strainer and into the bowl.. Putting a sheet of plastic Saran type wrap right on the surface before you close the can, greatly reduces the skinning..
I would barely dip the brush into the bowl and gently stroke it onto the surface of the deck or seat, just enough to wet it and see it turn dark. You can experiment, but if you put too much on a non horizontal surface, it will run easily... even when you think it is perfect, you will come back in a half hour and it will have runned.... this will sand off, or I have even scrapped and then sanded some big runs.... A transom is tougher than a front deck.
Sorry for the long post... you probably got a lot more advice than you needed.
John Hart
varnish
Thanks John for the much appreciated info. just finished the staining yesterday and Im very satisfied with what I see. However what Im not satisfied with it the interior sides of the boat. Doent look good with the present stain job. Will be bleaching some black spots (just a few). However I dont like the greaying that has happened over the years, right now Im very seriously considering doing a light stain but not real sure. I dont have much in the way of ribs and boards that show. The floor below the waterline is painted grey and the same up under the dash and Im not going to change this. Would be to much work. Some things I have just decided to live with. Again thanks John I will keep your offer in mind when I run into trouble. Jim Hays
Jim - Just in case you wanted to try some varnishing on something other that your boat, The Center For Wood Boats on Lake Union in Seattle offers a Varnishing and Brightwork class (amongst others) and I have heard some good reviews. I am signed up for the Sept 15th-16th session in hopes of getting some tips and hands on time before I go after my Thompson this fall/winter. It might be too long to wait if you have already stained but I thought I would let you know it is out there.
Trey
Trey
question
Andreaus, or anyone else, how many coats of pettit old salem sealer do you put on before varnish I think 1 ?? Also guys one of my brother inlaws has informed me that when the time comes to varnish he will help me get started (he make cabinets and carves in his spare time). So looks like my project is going to move along. So Im back to the shop for now. Still havent decided if I will stain the exposed ribs and boards. Again thanks for everything Guys. Jim Hays
Jim... For what it is worth, I used CPES as a sealer after the stain was good and dry ( I think maybe a week). I was crossing my fingers until I was sure that the CPES didn't lift the stain, but it did not.
A benefit of using CPES prior to varnishing (about 24hrs), is that is is said to 'glue' down the varnish.... it grips the stain/wood on one side and the varnish on the other...
John.
A benefit of using CPES prior to varnishing (about 24hrs), is that is is said to 'glue' down the varnish.... it grips the stain/wood on one side and the varnish on the other...
John.