Frames decayed at keel. Options?

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Woody
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 1:03 pm
Location: Atlanta

Frames decayed at keel. Options?

Post by Woody »

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Frames are decayed at ends. Appears a wood screw and nail installed at end. I'm considering adding (sistering) additional member at side of keelson to support ends of frames. Trimming back decay to allow for better drainage of water. Is this an acceptable restoration? My thought- I'm improving the design by allowing better drainage. Drainage was possibly a factor in causing the decay.
I know I'll need to bevel this piece to conform to slight angle of frames.
Should the bottom be flat at the last 5 or 6 frames? No need to bevel in this area?
Suggestions for design, options, fastening, etc welcomed.
Thanx
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txcaptdan
Posts: 348
Joined: Mon Jan 02, 2006 2:48 pm
Location: Weatherford, Texas
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Post by txcaptdan »

I think you are right on track by adding an additional member both sides of existing keelson. I think all ribs have some rot in the ends. I saw a bad repair the other day that the keelson had been replaced by a single large piece of wood and ribs had been cut back away from new keelson. That means there was no support for the garboard but its attachment at keel.
Make sure your keel is straight before you bolt on these additional supports.
Good luck
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Dan Stober
1965 20' Cruisers Inc. 570 Seacamper
1962 20' Cruisers Inc. 502
1963 16' Cruisers Inc. 202 Seafarer
Weatherford, Texas
Woody
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 1:03 pm
Location: Atlanta

Thanx Dan

Post by Woody »

Good information. One other member has suggested bolting rather than screwing these new members to the sides of the Keelson. Plan now is to check to ensure Keelson is straight, clean up and refasten side pieces and bolt on new pieces with through bolts (1/4 inch silicon bronze rod threaded on ends).
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LancerBoy
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Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 3:47 am
Location: Minneapolis

Post by LancerBoy »

Just make certain your ribs are attached to the keelson. If not, it'd be like cutting off the floor joists in your house 6 inches away from the wall supoort and just letting 'em hang there. I have seen that type of "repair" in boats such as these too many times.

Andreas
John Hart
Posts: 208
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 7:26 pm

Post by John Hart »

I think it is a good idea to through bolt...

When I added QS White Oak to each side of my keelson, I used SS Lag Bolts and then SS carriage bolts all the way through... unfortunately, I didn't think of threaded rods, and I had to bore out maybe a 1/4-1/2" on each side, because I couldn't get long enough carriage bolts. I also used big SS washers.

I was just barely able to drill all the way through the keelson setup, using a swivel angle head attachment on a drill, because of the hull sweeping up... I drilled a pilot hole first... they weren't all exactly level, but I felt better knowing that the whole structure was tightly tied together... I think I used 5 lag bolts, and four through bolts in between... which put everything about 3' apart from the next same bolt.

You probably have already planned out how you are going to fasten to the ribs, but for what it is worth, I laid the pieces in place, and marked lines with a pencil along all the ribs.... then I drilled a pilot hole through the rib and hull.... This gave me the exact spot I needed to drill and screw up through from the bottom later....

Good luck.

John.
Woody
Posts: 78
Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 1:03 pm
Location: Atlanta

Thanx John

Post by Woody »

I will have the benefit of the bottom planks removed. Prior to planking I'll do my keelson work. I have made a mental note to mark the location of the frames prior to installing plank.
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