Replacing transom bolts

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John Hart
Posts: 208
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 7:26 pm

Replacing transom bolts

Post by John Hart »

I am interested in getting advice/comments regarding the brass carriage bolts on the transom of my Seacoaster.. 1960.

I was thinking the other day, that maybe I should replace them. I never did that when I redid the boat in 2004-5. .. They are 50 years old... And I have no idea whether they will fail.

Here are some thoughts... Please feel free to respond to any or all of these.

1) Is this more trouble than it is worth? I have banged my way across Green Bay... Got some pounding on other lakes and rivers the past few years, and haven't had any problems. Maybe I should leave well enough alone. I would hate to chip out a chunk of CPES'd & varnished mahogany when I removed one... If I try to unscrew the nut, maybe it will not break loose, and just spin the head.. I guess I could grip the threads sticking out with a vice grip and try again.... Same goes for installing new bolts... Maybe they won't tighten right....

2) The outboard carriage bolt heads are pretty flush with the back of the transom... The next ones in had been drawn in a little. They have been that way since I have owned the boat. I am tempted to use a washer if I replace these, to avoid sucking the head in again. However, I assume the bolts have a square hump that seats in the wood, and a washer would probably not be feasible. ... And it would show a little, and therefore not look original.

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3) I figure I would just back off the nuts, and gently tap the old bolts out... I can't turn them, because the head is imbedded ... I would probably score around the head with an exacto knife to break any varnish/CPES bond... Any thoughts on other things to do.... Heat the bolt with something.. Hair dryer... It may snap anyway and have to be punched out with a smaller bolt.

4) I like the looks of brass.... Rather than silicon bronze... What have some of you used?

5) I would lift under the motor skeg to take some weight off, and then just remove and replace one bolt at a time... Out and in and be done. At first thought it seemed like a no brainer easy replacement, and then I would know I had new non-brittle bolts.

If anyone has any comments that could help, please feel free to offer them up.

Thanks.

John.
Torchie
Posts: 270
Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2010 4:55 pm
Location: Alden, Michigan

Post by Torchie »

Do you have any reason to think that they have failed?
If not I would leave them alone 8)
Karl.
LancerBoy
Posts: 1417
Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 3:47 am
Location: Minneapolis

Post by LancerBoy »

I believe I have replaced them with new silcon bronze carriage bolts on all the boats I have restored. In one boat the metal that was in the transom (the shaft of the bolt) was corroded down to almost nothing. Looked fine from the outside.

I have also always replaced the carriage bolts at outer stem/outer keel to stem and keelson joint.

I have obtained the carriage bolts at either www.boltdepot.com or www.classicboatconnection.com

The cariage bolts do have a square shank just under the dome head, therefore a washer will not work.

Andreas
JoeCB
Posts: 241
Joined: Fri Dec 30, 2005 5:17 pm
Location: Farmington Hills , MI

Post by JoeCB »

Well now you have pro and conn opinions.... If you decide on replacing, I would fill the sunken head hole with thickened epoxie. After hardening, redrilll the hole and relieve the end of the hole to square with a small square file, this to accomodate the carrage bolt. Should give the bolt a new firm bedding and keep the head from being sucked in.
Joe B
Torchie
Posts: 270
Joined: Tue Nov 23, 2010 4:55 pm
Location: Alden, Michigan

Post by Torchie »

I don't disagree with Andreas. I am replacing all the bolts on my Off Shore as we speak. The keel,stem and transom bolts. But my boat is also in the middle of a complete restoration. I think that you may find that in removing those bolts now you will end up having to refinish your entire transom. You might try putting a wrench on the nut and gently try to tighten it. If it is that worn and corroded it should snap and then you will know what you have to do. If it doesn't, then you may want to wait untill you have to "freshen up" the varnish on your boat to replace them.
Karl.
John Hart
Posts: 208
Joined: Sun Jan 29, 2006 7:26 pm

Post by John Hart »

Thanks for the feedback fellas.... I think I will plan to replace those bolts when I am sure I am done for the season, or maybe first thing next spring.

I think I will wire brush and put a little penetrating oil on the threads, and later try to remove a nut. Then remove the longest bolt and order new ones. I will try for brass, but if I can't get that, then SB. I will probably get them all the same length and then cut off the excess.

I think I might wait on doing anything with epoxy, and just install the new bolts like the old ones are now. When I need to revarnish the transom and if I decide to fill in the holes then, the bolts should come right out. Even if I put poly tape over the holes now, I would hate to have the epoxy leak out and down the transom when I wasn't looking. I would probably use Smith's Laminating and Layup epoxy or All Wood Glue, mixed with some mahogany sanding dust I have accumulated.

I also appreciate the bolt source recommendations.

Thanks again.
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