removing floor frame

Questions/concerns/issues. How did the other guy do it? Find out here.

Moderators: TDockside, Miles, a j r, Moderators

removing floor frame

Postby jim » Sun Apr 09, 2006 4:24 pm

I am trying to remove the floor frame from my 1958 sea lancer and am having some trouble. There appears to be some screws coming from some of the ribs into the frame. I tried removing some of the screws from the bottom of the hull to see if they go thru the ribs into the frame but they are not long enough. It is starting to look like I will have to remove the bottom planks or cut out the frame. Does this make sense? My ultimate goal is to remove the inner keel and replace it. I have already removed the outer keel. Thanks for your help. Jim
jim
 
Posts: 38
Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2006 6:31 pm
Location: Denton, Maryland

Postby a j r » Mon Apr 10, 2006 3:59 am

Hi Jim, As far as I know, the floor frame (longitudinal stringers) are attached by screws from the ribs into the oak stringers. To get at the screw heads, as you mentioned, you need to remove the planking. The same goes for the inner keel, which the ribs are nailed and screwed into. The planking was attached after these screws were installed.

To remove the inner keel you do not need to remove the stringers. Just remove all the cross supports for the floor that go from stringer to stringer. This should give you access to the inner keel and you will not be disturbing the stringers.

Make certain you brace the boat very well during this deconstruction so she does not loose her shape.

I am working on a 1959 Thompson Bros. Peshtigo Sea Lancer right now.

Andreas
Image
a j r
 
Posts: 661
Joined: Sat Jan 07, 2006 3:09 pm

Floor Frame

Postby Rodney Syverson » Mon Apr 10, 2006 3:37 pm

Jim: I removed all my inner structure and as Andreas says the Floor Frames (outboard or sister keels) and the cleats that create the T in the Tshaped center keel are all secured to each individual rib with a screw. This screw was secured before the planking went on. So you would need to remove the garplank to access those screws, however I asked and was told to use a sawzall to carefully cut those screws. I did and it worked quite well allthough it chewed up the keels and cleats which I had anticipated replacing anyhow. I was able to do this without significantly damaging the ribs but that proved to be a moot issue as I discovered my ribs needed to be replaced as well. This was done by removing all the screws through the planks and then the ribs fell right out. Upon reinstalling the new ribs I run a screw through the plank through the rib and into the new sister keels and cleats.
Rod S
Rodney Syverson
 
Posts: 43
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 4:52 pm
Location: Ada, Minnesota

Postby jim » Mon Apr 10, 2006 5:54 pm

Thanks for the info, it's a big help.
Jim
jim
 
Posts: 38
Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2006 6:31 pm
Location: Denton, Maryland

Inner Keel

Postby john » Mon Apr 10, 2006 6:21 pm

Removing inner keel is not that hard. I used a 8" ginder with a carbide blade,(non OSHA approved)simply used the blade to cut sideways into the screws.

In the end, I removed the garwood anyway, looking back it would have been easier to start this way.

Lapstrakes came off so easy, I took every one off, except top one. Made it very easy to refinish, I reinstalled all lapstrakes. Refinished inside of lapstrakes before assemble. Also did back sides of ribs. All with cpes and then varnish.

Made new inner keel is 2" wider, and cut off rotted rib end to good wood about 1".

www.aerialimaging.net/john contains all Cruisers rework and some of my other boats.
john
 
Posts: 261
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 7:33 pm
Location: Crosby (Houston) Texas


Return to Restoration

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 3 guests