I have a late '40s Thompson. Based on catalogs I saw at the Marinette show a couple years ago I believe it is a TVT Super Deluxe. I have the bottom stripped and sanded. It will need some minor patching but is almost ready for paint. based on what came off the boat I think this boat had a white bottom with Cardinal Red splash rails and varnished sides and interior. Here are my questions: 1) What combination of paint and/or primer is appropriate for the bottom and splash rails of this boat? Every paint I look at other than epoxy or anti-fouling paint has a disclaimer that it cannot be left in the water continuously or it will blister. While I do not plan on leaving it in the water a lot it is not at all unthinkable that it would be in the water for a week at a time. 2) I saw a post about a caulk which was referred to as 5200. Can someone give a source for this product? Is this suitable for the small cracks between some of the original boards and small gouges in the bottom or should I use a sandable epoxy product for that? 3) this boat has an orangy red strip down the center of the interior. It could be Cardinal Red but to me it looks too orange. It is about 30 inches wide tapering down in the V under the front deck. I do not think this is original but just thought I would ask if Thompson ever did this. Thanks,
Dick
Below the waterline paint
Moderators: a j r, TDockside, Miles, Moderators
Below the waterline paint
Thompson TVT Super Deluxe
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Charles Drumm
- Posts: 24
- Joined: Thu Mar 08, 2007 11:09 am
- Location: Lakewood, Ohio
Look at Interlux 2000E which is a great water barrier coating used on many fiberglass boats before applying anti-fouling paint. 2000E WORKS GREAT ON WOOD for the same purpose. It's been in use for a number of years. For go fast sail boats that stay in the water, the choices are usually 2000E or VC-Tar. The 2000E goes on easily, leaves a rough surface that needs some sanding before your anti-fouling paint. The same is true of VC-Tar, but you limit your bottom paint choices with VC-Tar.
Check out the Interlux site for info.
www.yachtpaint.com
You can buy online from Jamestown Distributors.
Check out the Interlux site for info.
www.yachtpaint.com
You can buy online from Jamestown Distributors.
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thegammas
- Posts: 566
- Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 2:10 pm
- Location: Wilmington, Delaware. peterstransky@verizon.net - put wooden boat in the subject
I'll take a shot at the 5200 question. 3M makes a line of caulk for water applications. It's available at most Marine supply places, such as West Marine. You'll see a lot of references to 5200 and 4200. There are others but I am familiar with these two. Both are adhesive caulks suitable for above or below the water line. 5200 has a high adhesion strength. It's typically used for permanent applications and is supposedly very difficult, but possible, to remove. Is it great as a bedding compound and for structural applications. 4200 has a lower adhesion strength and is best for non-permanent applications, but ones that you want to last a good long time . I used 4200 to caulk the keel cap and garboard seams on my Sea Lancer. It was easy to remove with common tools when I was making some repairs.
5200 might be good for cracks in planks since it is very strong but will remain flexible. Not sure you could get a smooth finish though - the more skilled and experienced on this site can give you better direction on that. For gouges and nail/screw head filling I would use a sandable filler suitable for under water application. I used 4200 to fill nail/screw holes on my bottom hoping that in a few seasons I'll flip the boat and strip/refasten/refinish the entire hull. I figured the 4200 would be easier to remove than filler when that day comes. Don’t know if that was the best approach, but it seems to be working well - no leaks, no pop outs - though sadly my boat has not seen much water this season.
5200 might be good for cracks in planks since it is very strong but will remain flexible. Not sure you could get a smooth finish though - the more skilled and experienced on this site can give you better direction on that. For gouges and nail/screw head filling I would use a sandable filler suitable for under water application. I used 4200 to fill nail/screw holes on my bottom hoping that in a few seasons I'll flip the boat and strip/refasten/refinish the entire hull. I figured the 4200 would be easier to remove than filler when that day comes. Don’t know if that was the best approach, but it seems to be working well - no leaks, no pop outs - though sadly my boat has not seen much water this season.
Peter Stransky
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
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Phill Blank
- Posts: 412
- Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:20 pm
- Location: Hurley, Wisconsin
Dick,
If you look at my boat under the "Dockside Boats" tab on the main page it is a TVT Super Deluxe Runabout and if yours looks like that then it is a Super Deluxe Runabout. If not it maybe a TVT Deluxe Runabout. The Deluxe Runabout had deferent style deck between the front and rear cockpits. It did not have the radiused cut blending it into the deck. The Deluxe Runabout had a center deck that looked like and after thought. It sat on top of the deck running along the gunnels of the boat.
As for a seam filler I have used Boat Life felexible sealer for wood with much success. It is sandable after application when totally dry and cured. It does take some time like a week or two to totally setup. If painted when it is not fully cured the paint will stay tracky until the solvents have totally out gased from the filler. Then the paint will dry to a normal gloss finish. You wnat to be sure the wood is totally dry and clean of dust and oils before applying Boat Life caulk. It is available at West Marine stores.
For filling dents and gouges I have used wood fillers like Bordon's and other brands like that. I have also used autobody fillers and marine fillers made for wood that set up to a hard surface and they can be sanded smooth to be even with the surrounding wood.
As for bottom paint. Unless you plan on keeping the boat in the water all season I would stay away from anti-fouling bottom panits. The are expensive and are toxic as hell so one must be very carefull when sanding them for recoating.
I have used Epifanes and Interlux non-epoxy paints with good success for painting my boat. It is stored out of the water on the trailer except when I have had it a the Thompson Rally when it has been in the water for aonly a couple days at a time. If the surface you are paintng is clean, dry and is degreased before painting. If you have stripped the wood with chemical stripper, I do recommend that the hull be washed down with soap and water then rinsed with clear water and aloowed to throuhly air dry to make sure there is no residual left from the stripper before painting.
Andreas says that George Kirby Jr. Paint Co. of New Bedford, Mass has the best marine paints available. I have yet to use there paint. You might want to give them a call and talk with them.
As for you hull colors. The bottom was White as standard with the spray rail being Cardinal Red. The exterior from the spray rail up includeing th edeck was stained and varnished. The enterior was just varnished wood through out, no stain. No painted area in the center. Sometimes people would paint this area because the dicoloration of the wood if the varnish was not kept in good shape. When water gets into the wood and under the varnish the wood will turn dark anywhere from a gray to black. This is a great spot for rot to start. You may want ot think about stripping the interior to inspect the wood in the ribs and planking. I stripped my 12 footer using BIX Spray-on Striper. It worked very well. I did the stripping out side under a tarp I used as an awning to keep rain and the sun off the boat and myself while working with it.
What part of Wisconsin do you live in? If you would like you can email me direct at pblank@new.rr.com to discuss your boat.
Good Luck,
Phill
If you look at my boat under the "Dockside Boats" tab on the main page it is a TVT Super Deluxe Runabout and if yours looks like that then it is a Super Deluxe Runabout. If not it maybe a TVT Deluxe Runabout. The Deluxe Runabout had deferent style deck between the front and rear cockpits. It did not have the radiused cut blending it into the deck. The Deluxe Runabout had a center deck that looked like and after thought. It sat on top of the deck running along the gunnels of the boat.
As for a seam filler I have used Boat Life felexible sealer for wood with much success. It is sandable after application when totally dry and cured. It does take some time like a week or two to totally setup. If painted when it is not fully cured the paint will stay tracky until the solvents have totally out gased from the filler. Then the paint will dry to a normal gloss finish. You wnat to be sure the wood is totally dry and clean of dust and oils before applying Boat Life caulk. It is available at West Marine stores.
For filling dents and gouges I have used wood fillers like Bordon's and other brands like that. I have also used autobody fillers and marine fillers made for wood that set up to a hard surface and they can be sanded smooth to be even with the surrounding wood.
As for bottom paint. Unless you plan on keeping the boat in the water all season I would stay away from anti-fouling bottom panits. The are expensive and are toxic as hell so one must be very carefull when sanding them for recoating.
I have used Epifanes and Interlux non-epoxy paints with good success for painting my boat. It is stored out of the water on the trailer except when I have had it a the Thompson Rally when it has been in the water for aonly a couple days at a time. If the surface you are paintng is clean, dry and is degreased before painting. If you have stripped the wood with chemical stripper, I do recommend that the hull be washed down with soap and water then rinsed with clear water and aloowed to throuhly air dry to make sure there is no residual left from the stripper before painting.
Andreas says that George Kirby Jr. Paint Co. of New Bedford, Mass has the best marine paints available. I have yet to use there paint. You might want to give them a call and talk with them.
As for you hull colors. The bottom was White as standard with the spray rail being Cardinal Red. The exterior from the spray rail up includeing th edeck was stained and varnished. The enterior was just varnished wood through out, no stain. No painted area in the center. Sometimes people would paint this area because the dicoloration of the wood if the varnish was not kept in good shape. When water gets into the wood and under the varnish the wood will turn dark anywhere from a gray to black. This is a great spot for rot to start. You may want ot think about stripping the interior to inspect the wood in the ribs and planking. I stripped my 12 footer using BIX Spray-on Striper. It worked very well. I did the stripping out side under a tarp I used as an awning to keep rain and the sun off the boat and myself while working with it.
What part of Wisconsin do you live in? If you would like you can email me direct at pblank@new.rr.com to discuss your boat.
Good Luck,
Phill
Good responses above.
You don't need anti-fouling paint if the boat will only be in the water for a week at a time or so.
Do not use 3M5200 in the seams between planking. Use a caulk. 3M5200 is an adhesive.
The orange stripe in your bilge is not original.
What is the hull ID of your boat stamped into the wood of the transom? What are her centerline and gunwale lengths?
Andreas
You don't need anti-fouling paint if the boat will only be in the water for a week at a time or so.
Do not use 3M5200 in the seams between planking. Use a caulk. 3M5200 is an adhesive.
The orange stripe in your bilge is not original.
What is the hull ID of your boat stamped into the wood of the transom? What are her centerline and gunwale lengths?
Andreas
Thanks everyone. I went to the Boat Show in Marinette in 2004 right after I got this boat and I may have seen Phill's boat. Were you there? This boat is the same configuration but it does not have the vinyl around the inside. Found it laying under a tarp outside covered in a thick layer of pine needles. I would say it was the complete opposite of Phill's with respect to it's overall condition. I did get the 18 horse Evinrude Fast Twin that they had been using on it but I know that was not the original power. For one thing it is too new. The people I got it from had won the Fast Twin in a contest and put it on this boat. The last registration sticker on the boat was 1978.
I measured it to be 13 ft 4.75 inches long measuring straight from the transom to the front. I have not measured the Gunwales. The width was 53.75 inches but I think the boat is splayed out a little because a one foot opening had been cut out of the center deck. I have the mahogany strips to fix that but basic clean up and getting rid of the old varnish and paint were my first priority. (kind of slow going) I would like to avoid antifouling paint as Phill suggests. I would also like to avoid epoxy paint if possible. I may have to commit to not leaving it in the water for any extended time.
As far as the Hull ID I have seen what they look like and this boat does not have one. There is none listed on the registration either. The woman I got it from knew the history back 3 owners to a relative that bought it used in "1949 or 1950" in Madison but she knew nothing about the original owner.
Another question: This boat had what I would describe as a planer board extending off the back end as if to extend the bottom of the hull. It is in very rough shape. I did not see anything like it in Marinette but when I took it off the brass along the keel extended right onto it. I saved the pieces and would like to know if Thompson ever did anything like that.
In answer to your question Phill I live near Lakewood about 75 miles straight north of Appleton. I would love to see your boat sometime.
Dick
I measured it to be 13 ft 4.75 inches long measuring straight from the transom to the front. I have not measured the Gunwales. The width was 53.75 inches but I think the boat is splayed out a little because a one foot opening had been cut out of the center deck. I have the mahogany strips to fix that but basic clean up and getting rid of the old varnish and paint were my first priority. (kind of slow going) I would like to avoid antifouling paint as Phill suggests. I would also like to avoid epoxy paint if possible. I may have to commit to not leaving it in the water for any extended time.
As far as the Hull ID I have seen what they look like and this boat does not have one. There is none listed on the registration either. The woman I got it from knew the history back 3 owners to a relative that bought it used in "1949 or 1950" in Madison but she knew nothing about the original owner.
Another question: This boat had what I would describe as a planer board extending off the back end as if to extend the bottom of the hull. It is in very rough shape. I did not see anything like it in Marinette but when I took it off the brass along the keel extended right onto it. I saved the pieces and would like to know if Thompson ever did anything like that.
In answer to your question Phill I live near Lakewood about 75 miles straight north of Appleton. I would love to see your boat sometime.
Dick
Thompson TVT Super Deluxe
It has a little metal Thompson name plate in the center of the front dashboard and was built just like other Thompson boats I saw in Marinette with the exception of that extension of the bottom. The extension could have been added after manufacture but the fact that the metal strap on the keel extended onto it made me wonder if it was built that way. As you said the orange inside was probably to cover up wear. In light of the lack of a hull number I would guess this boat was built "off the books" for someone that sold it after a couple years but that is only a guess.
Dick
Dick
Thompson TVT Super Deluxe