1962 Grady White Pamlico

Questions/concerns/issues. How did the other guy do it? Find out here.

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Bill E
Posts: 71
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2008 7:02 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA USA

Post by Bill E »

I have the same problem. Last weekend, I started detaching the planking from the transom on the port side. At the tails of the planks, I found a column of screws going into the vertical members of the transom, and behind those, a column of nails shooting into the end grain of the horizontal planks of the transom. I don't mind digging a little in the painted planks, but I'd like to avoid messing up the stained & varnished sheerstrake. I've tried prying from inside the boat against the transom, and that helped some on the lower planks, but not up there. Tips, anyone?

It may be time to buy a Dremel... if I could carefully grind off the head of the nail, the plank would come off, and then I could use a nail puller or pliers to remove the shank of the nail.

-wte
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Bill Eason
Atlanta, GA
LancerBoy
Posts: 1417
Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 3:47 am
Location: Minneapolis

Post by LancerBoy »

These boats built by Thompson, Cruisers, T & T and I will assume Grady-White, were made fast. At Peshtigo they made 5,000 a year. To speed production, they would nail items together first and come back later and use screws. This would get the baic shape of things and hold stuff together so it could be removed from the jig. That's why there are lots of nails

Andreas
Phill Blank
Posts: 412
Joined: Thu Jan 05, 2006 4:20 pm
Location: Hurley, Wisconsin

Post by Phill Blank »

There is handy little set of tools out there that will drill out broken screws and nails in wood. They are a set of tubular drills that use the shank of the screw or nail as a guide and they will drill around the shank which can then be removed relitively easily I am told. You then glue in a wood plug of the same species wood and start with a new pilot hole for your new screws. I am very seriously look at purchasing a set of these myself. It will be handy for all my wood owrking project not just working on the boats. This handy little tool is called "UNSCREW-UMS" you can ppurchase them from T & L Tools wedsite at www.tltools.com.
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HalcyonDays
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:09 am

Post by HalcyonDays »

I have started to take the screws out around the transom and they seem to be coming out without breaking. I am seriously considering drilling off the heads of the nails; and once I CPES & caulk either putting nails in again next to the old shanks or drilling and screwing. It seems like I would be doing more damage than good trying to get the nails out they have been counter sunk in. Any thoughts?
Last edited by HalcyonDays on Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
calvin
Posts: 57
Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2007 4:09 pm
Location: maryland

Post by calvin »

I have used aa awl and a pick tool to pry the nail heads up slightly the use needle nose pliers to pull them out..the nails I pulled out were smooth shank and came out easily..give me a call if you like..Buddy
HalcyonDays
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:09 am

Too many choices.....

Post by HalcyonDays »

Is it just me or are ther too many choices out there. Interested to hear what others have picked.
Last edited by HalcyonDays on Tue Jan 19, 2010 7:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
LancerBoy
Posts: 1417
Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 3:47 am
Location: Minneapolis

Post by LancerBoy »

For what it's worth, I use:

-Old Salem Sealer
-Interlux Schnooer 96 spar varnnish
-paint from George Kirby, Jr. Paint Co. or Interlux Brightside Polyurethane
-3M 5200 for bedding stuff I never want to come apart again (NOT for the keel)
-Life Caulk by Boat Life for caulking
-Smith's CPES for sealer
-Smith's Fill-It for filling dings and scratches in paintable surfaces

Andreas
thegammas
Posts: 566
Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 2:10 pm
Location: Wilmington, Delaware. peterstransky@verizon.net - put wooden boat in the subject

Post by thegammas »

Andreas - is the Smith's Fill it suitable for large areas? If I ever get the time, still planning to flip my Sea Lancer and correct the hooks with a reinforcing cloth/filler (assuming they are minor enough to make that a viable approach)
Peter Stransky
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
LancerBoy
Posts: 1417
Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 3:47 am
Location: Minneapolis

Post by LancerBoy »

I don't know. My guess is that Smith's Fill-It or any other type of filler is suitable for small areas only.

Andreas
Bill E
Posts: 71
Joined: Fri Jan 11, 2008 7:02 pm
Location: Atlanta, GA USA

Post by Bill E »

Peter,

I'd highly suggest using thickened epoxy to fill that hook. Maybe first apply with a notched trowel like thinset under a tile floor, then screed that off with a straightedge. Most any hardware store sells aluminum angle that you could use for that. After this cures, check it for level and smoothness. Knock off any high spots, then fill the grooves with another coat. Silica filler will help prevent the epoxy from sagging, while microballoons will help with sandability. You sure don't want your filler to sag before it cures!

Have you seen my latest post under Bottom shape - Bill's '57 Sea Lancer? It deals with my assessment of how my boat's bottom got hooked and what I'm thinking of doing about it. With that big 100hp motor (mine's a similar Merc 900), you might consider doing the same, or you may be facing another hook downriver sometime.
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Bill Eason
Atlanta, GA
thegammas
Posts: 566
Joined: Sat Nov 25, 2006 2:10 pm
Location: Wilmington, Delaware. peterstransky@verizon.net - put wooden boat in the subject

Post by thegammas »

Thanks Bill and AJR,

I did see your post Bill - I checked by keel and sisters and they are flat and straight. My transome bows out about an eigth of an inch at center, so I am pretty comfortable that it's Ok. I am considering some reinforcement though.

My hook comes from sitting on a trailer without the bunks extending past the transome. They dont look severe, appear to be localized to where the roller where, and less than a half inch as far as I can tell.

I plan to flip the boat for the work on that and removing the outter keel for clean up and reseal. I like the approach of using a notched trowl.
Peter Stransky
1962 Cortland Custom Sea Lancer
Wilmington, Delaware
LancerBoy
Posts: 1417
Joined: Mon Jan 28, 2008 3:47 am
Location: Minneapolis

Post by LancerBoy »

Peter, check out a picture of the Cortland factory in the Misc. section...

Andreas
HalcyonDays
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:09 am

Post by HalcyonDays »

The hull is getting ready for paint. Gloss or Semi Gloss for the hull, that is the question. What is everyone using?
Last edited by HalcyonDays on Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
HalcyonDays
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:09 am

Post by HalcyonDays »

Update the project continues. I got side tracted with some paint issues (I must have applied the paint when it was too cold or something). In any event I am back on this project hope to flip in a week or two.
Last edited by HalcyonDays on Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
HalcyonDays
Posts: 83
Joined: Tue Jan 22, 2008 6:09 am

Post by HalcyonDays »

no photo
Last edited by HalcyonDays on Sun Dec 27, 2009 10:42 am, edited 1 time in total.
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